LETTER II TO THE SAME - Robert Murray Mcchene
Hampstead Heath, 9th April 1839.
My Dear Father, Mother, And Sister, — I Have received your kind letters, and only grieve at their being so short. I am thankful to perceive that you are all well. I heard of you also to-day from Andrew Bonar and my compagnons de voyage. I am wonderfully well in spite of all the toils of a London life, which are neither few nor small. I never was in a place like London before; and were it not for the great kindness and considerate watchfulness of the kind lady with whom I stay, I believe I would have been fairly knocked up by this time. On the 30th March I made my first entry into London with Mrs. Tate. We drove through Regent’s Park, and I admired its seeming palaces, which also reminded me of the whited sepulchres. I called on Sir George Sinclair, but he was out. Surveyed St. James’s Palace, which you know is a grave-looking building, like some of our Canongate palaces. Walked through Burlington Arcade and the Quadrant—called on Mr. Nisbet, the bookseller, and Mr. Hamilton, a Scottish elder, who has been the kindest person in London (out of this house) to me. We returned late, and I heartily tired.
Sabbath, March, 31. —Being a little fatigued, I went to the Hampstead churches— first to the chapel. Mr. H. preached, evidently a very good man, though needing much to be roused up into life and energy. Afternoon, went to the parish church. Heard one of the curates. Saw the Baptismal Service —far too long—too many kneelings, and the absurd signing with the cross on the forehead of the child. The sponsors, too, seemed ignorant clowns. I fear there is a sore evil here. Evening spent quietly.
Monday, 1st April.—Into the City by 2. Went with Mr. Hamilton to Mr. Waghorn, a singular blunt Englishman. He called our expedition a trip—pointed out the easiest route in a trice, and was done. I could fix nothing till I knew the resolve of my Fathers. Called on Mr. Andrew Bonar, one of the merchant princes of this great city. Very kind; invited us to dine on Saturday. Riding some miles further, called on Dr. Crombie, Scotch minister—serious, pleasant young man. He agreed to print Mr. Candlish’s Statement, and to call a prayer meeting of all the congregations for Tuesday. Called on a rich Jew—made little of him. Wrote Mr. Candlish. Rattled a long way to Manchester Street—dined and spent the evening with the Wettens.
2nd. April.—Stayed at home all day to recruit mind and body. This city wears away all my thoughts and feelings. Palpitation, which had left me, returned in some measure yesterday and this day.
3rd. April.—Into the City by 2. Called at Tract Society, who have granted us as many tracts as we please, and all the help in their power. Went through St. Paul’s—paced up and down its splendid area—went over the marble statues of departed heroes. Was especially pleased with that of the first Bishop of Calcutta baptizing two Hindoos, all beautifully carved. Also Bishop Heber kneeling —the marble of his gown very like silk— newly erected. It is. a glorious edifice, but more for looking at than for use. Walked along Fleet Street and Strand, guided by Mr. Hamilton— Exeter Hall. Saw Secretary of the Jewish Society. His daughter married to Ewald, missionary at Tunis—said all his family will write. Poor man! he will be disappointed, now that we are not going by Africa. He seemed a godly man, and a lover of Israel. Walked round Westminster Abbey, and was awestruck by its grandeur. Had not time for the insid —rode to Haverstock—Mr. Hamilton’s—dined there with Mr. Macmorland, minister of Irving’s old church. Edward’s’ fall was a great blow to the Scottish Church here. We must do something for the Church here. It is of vast importance. There are said to be 100,000 Scotchmen in ‘London, yet few cleave to the church of their fathers.
4th April. —Into the City by 12. Then to Bethnal Green, several miles further. There is no end to this wilderness of houses. Called -on Mr. Cartwright, Secretary to London Jews’ Society, Palestine Place—kindly received—conducted through the schools for Jewish children. Saw 45 boys at their dinner. They afterwards read some Hebrew to me and sung a hymn in Hebrew, “Worthy the Lamb”— he chorus was very sweet, man labs,— “slain for us.” In the other school, saw 28 girls—pretty Jewish faces. They sung the 111th Psalm in Hebrew, responding to one another in the true Hebrew style. It was very sweet. Saw the chapel where they have a Hebrew service every Sunday afternoon—a Jew is to be baptized next Sunday evening. City again. Introduced to an American Jew—a colonel who has been in Palestine lately—very communicative and kind—quite a gentleman; seemed to think the Jews will be very friendly to us. Another rich Jew gave me a piece of unleavened bread. I left them, saying, “I hope we shall bring no evil to Israel;” they replying, “No; we hope you will bring much good.” Dined at Mr. Macniell’s, the Persian Ambassador. He and his lady very kind—full of clear information. Advises us to go from Aleppo to Constantinople by land. Mrs. T. and daughter with me.
Friday, 5th April.—Snowy day. Drove to West End—called on Dr. Welsh and Mr. Dunlop. The latter went with me to Sir George Grey, who had appointed to meet me at 2. Very pleasant man—very kind—very quick in dispatching business. In five minutes we were on our way to the Foreign Office, where I left Sir George’s letter and my card for Mr. Backhouse. City. Heard the Cathedral Service in St. Paul’s—was solemnized by it—beautiful singing. Called on Mr. Saul, a converted Jew, who did not know what to do or say for joy because we were going to Jerusalem. “I have not found so great faith, no, not in Israel!” Went to the Synagogue with Mr. H. About 500 Jews present—all hats on—a hollow murmur or muttering of prayers was going on. Suddenly the Rabbi, on a raised platform lighted with large tapers, burst into a loud ‘chant. Sometimes the whole assembly started to their feet and joined with loud voices sometimes three voices sang alone, a splendid chant, all in Hebrew. I could catch a word now and then. Visited another synagogue much more splendidly fitted up, quite new— 200 or 300 present. The same kind of service going on. I thought on the Valley full of dry bones. I longed that they would ask me to speak to them. “Men and brethren, say on!” Wrote down a prayer tor the coming of the Saviour, painted on the wall.
6th April.—My kind hostess insisted on my taking the play—visited, with her, the Colosseum, a truly wonderful panorama of London. My head felt quite giddy, and I feared to look over, lest I should fall from the top of St. Paul’s—visited the Polytechnic. Met James Mackay and Mrs. Gordon. Rode round Hyde Park—called on Mrs. Wetten. Dined at Mr. Bonar’s, Chester Terrace. Very kind people. Two Misses Hope there —very kind. One promised me many letters, and to introduce me next day to Baptist Noel.
7th April.—Quiet Sabbath. Walked in to Mr. Noel’s. I now begin to know London quite well. Heard him preach with great power and talent, on the fear of God and fear of man. Afterwards saw the Communion dispensed, with which I was much pleased. It was very simple and solemn. Found Mr. Noel a very pleasant man—very kind and interested about our mission. Afternoon, heard his curate, Mr. Garret, and liked him better even than Mr. Noel, though the church was not one-third full. In the morning, hundreds had to stand. Evening quiet. London is not nearly so bad on the Sabbath as I expected.
8th April,—Called on Misses Hope—found several friends of Israel— many letters and kindnesses. Called on Sir R. Inglis—not at home. Quiet evening at home.
9th April.—Went to Mr. Nesbit’s and heard of my fellow-travellers. Found them in the City; all happy to meet. Went to Mr. Waghorn’s and Foreign Office. Dined at Mr. Nesbit’s. Solemn meeting in Regent Square Church; many converted Jews and friends of Israel present. Two ministers read and prayed, and Dr. Black gave an address. Now I sit down to give you an account of all. Andrew is looking thin, but is quite well. I am much better, though a little wearied with incessant business. I have many engagements for to morrow; and we sail next morning for Boulogne. I shall be glad when we are fairly off. May God keep me humble, and prayerful, and holy. I commend you all to Him day by day. May He watch over you when I am far away, and over dear Willie. I heard from Dundee tonight; all goes on well. Surely God hath done great things for us, whereof we are glad. I will write soon again. Pray for me, your affectionate son and brother,